Food and drink of Kayasthas 04: If there is no Shami Kebab and Seenk Kebab, then what kind of food will the Lalas of Lucknow have?

In Kayastha families, no feast can take place without goat meat (mutton). Like the Mughals, Kayasthas also prepared many delicious dishes from mutton. They did not pay much attention to chicken. Fish is eaten occasionally. Most Kayastha houses had two kitchens. For a vegetarian meal. Second for non-vegetarian food. In today’s episode we will know about the famous food and drink of Kayasthas of Lucknow.

Lucknow is called the city of sophistication and culture. If you have lived in many cities. If there is a city in it, Lucknow, then who can understand that city better than you. From the old mansions of the old city to the clothes and dialect to the food, there is a special sophistication and style. However, Lucknow has still preserved its old things to a great extent. At least in terms of food.

Be it Lucknow’s Naan Veg or Chaat or the food prepared in the kitchen with every season and the smell of spices that accompany the cooked food. If we talk about old Lucknow, Kayasthas had great status here. He has played a role in every aspect of Awadh.

Earlier the headquarters of Awadh was Faizabad. Then in 1775 Nawab Asifuddola brought him to Lucknow. Then a lot of work was done in Lucknow, from culture to cuisine. Nadeem Hasnain’s book “The Other Lucknow” says that when Nawab Asifuddola brought the capital of Awadh to Lucknow, a Kayastha was made Diwan, who later became his Prime Minister. His name was Raja Tikait Rai. There are still many places in his name from Lucknow to Faizabad.

He built many new temples, ghats, ponds, mosques and renovated places of Hindu importance. Tikait Rai was a Kayastha. Foodie and drinker. Those who give parties. Those who enjoy songs and music. Many dishes came out of his kitchen and those of other high ranking Kayasthas.

There was no meal without Shami Kebab and Seenk Kebab.
Various types of dishes prepared from mutton, Shami kebab, Seenk kebab were undoubtedly the pride of the kitchen of Kayasthas too. Without this they could not eat. By the way, Lucknow gets the credit for many innovations in kebab. Kayasthas had a special habit that they would often test the methods of preparing non-vegetarian food on the test of vegetarianism. The results obtained laid the foundation of new dishes.

Kebab made from gram that beats meat
Just as Lucknow gave many types of non-vegetarian kebabs, similarly many types of vegetarian kebabs were also produced through the Kayasthas of Lucknow. The kebab made by soaking gram dal, grinding it, adding gram flour and spices to it is so delicious that even meat eaters often get cheated.

When the gram dal has melted overnight after the morning, it is boiled lightly. After this it is ground. Then, by mixing spices, salt etc. with a small amount of roasted gram flour, giving it the shape of a tikki, and slowly baking it in oil and ghee on a pan on low flame, delicious veg kebabs are made.
These are made in many types. Seasonal vegetables can be included in it. Actually, there is no match between pea and jackfruit kebab.

Firaq who was crazy about kebabs
In Ramesh Dwivedi’s book “Zikr e Firaq -Yun Hi Firaq Ne Zindagi Ki Basar”, his fascination with kebabs has been written in great detail. Liquor and kebabs were his favorite food. By the way, he was also a Kayastha – his real name was Raghupati Sahay.

The Kayastha cuisine of Awadhi has both Hindu and Muslim influences. Generally, many women of Kayastha houses were vegetarian but they used to prepare wonderful non-vegetarian dishes, but they also brought the meat-like taste to pulses and vegetables in vegetarian dishes.

Kayasthas of Lucknow made friendship more than non-vegetarian food
If names are taken among the vegetables prepared like meat in taste and colour, then the name of moong dal liver or arbi cooked like fish can be taken. However, it is true that the Kayasthas of Lucknow enjoyed friendship more than eating non-vegetarian food. Meat was especially cooked at the Kayasthas’ house on the evening of Dussehra and Holi.

My landlord in Lucknow, Amar Gaur, was a bank officer but was a staunch Lucknowi. He had no responsibility in preparing the meat. For the first time, I heard from his mouth that whenever you go to the market, bring gol boti meat. When I went to the market in front of HAL in Indiranagar to buy it. When he demanded Golbuti, the meat seller gave him the meat by beating him in a different way. The pleasure of both eating and cooking it was different.

For the first time, I saw Kayasthas adding the fragrance of rose and kevada to curry, kofta and kebab in Lucknow itself. In Lucknow, some Kayasthas still serve traditional dishes in their restaurants or hotels in Naubasta, Aminabad and many localities of old Lucknow. Here you can eat the best koftas, pasandes, phares and meat made by Kayasthas.

special friendship with jackfruit
I would also say that the Kayasthas of Lucknow are especially fond of jackfruit. When jackfruit season arrives, its vegetables are prepared by mixing it with mustard seeds and gram flour. Sometimes they are boiled and transformed into delicious dishes and sometimes they are simply stuffed with spices in oil.

If jackfruit curry is cooked with spices, it becomes difficult to differentiate whether it is meat in broth or jackfruit. I also ate pakodas made of boiled jackfruit in gram flour here. Kayastha women, especially in vegetarian cuisine, had developed such cooking skills that even these dishes seemed superior to meat.

The dining table becomes more decorated in winter
Anukthi Vishal says in her book, “Mrs. Alice’s Table” that the pleasure of eating in Lucknow increases during winters. In November, most of the dining tables are served with leafy vegetables like spinach, fenugreek, peas and cabbage dishes from breakfast till lunch and dinner. I was becoming Shobha. The aroma of carrot halwa started coming out, which when cooked with khova and spread on a plate and cut into squares, would take the place of a delicious dessert.

Sweets and laddus were prepared by mixing sesame seeds and mawa. At that time, cooking in Kayastha houses was seasonal. Although this still happens. In winter, the way of eating changes completely – the food becomes rich. This winter season is very wonderful for Kayasthas. There is more variety in food and more spicy dishes. During winters, Satpeta i.e. arhar or urad dal prepared with chopped spinach is especially prepared in the homes of Kayasthas during this season.

It is believed that Satpeta dal and cabbage dishes came under colonial influence in the kitchen of Kayasthas. This was also the season for making Mungodis and Badis. Many seasonal vegetables can also be dried and used further. Well, it is certain that if you are in Lucknow and a Kayastha has invited you for a feast, if he comes to know that you are a non-vegetarian, then he will show hospitality to you by serving two-three dishes from it with great pride in your plate. (continued)

read this also –

Food and drink of Kayasthas1: How is the kitchen of Lalas decorated, what is cooked in it

Food of Kayasthas 02: From kebabs to new style of biryani which came out of their kitchen

Food and drink of Kayasthas 03: Shab Degh meat which was very tasty and liver of lentils

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Tags: food, food diet, Food Recipe, Lucknow city, Prayagraj cuisine