The journey of Tunde Kebabi: Lucknow, the city of Nawabs, is famous all over the world for its Nawabi culture and delicious cuisine. There is a kebab in this city that has made the mouths of not only Indians but also foreigners water, this is Tunday Kabab. This journey that started in the Chowk of Lucknow 125 years ago has become a world famous brand today. It is said that every person who comes to Lucknow and is fond of eating non-veg, definitely visits the Tunday Kabab shop. These kebabs have also gained no less fame than Hyderabadi Biryani in the country and the world. Today we take you on such a journey where we will know how one-handed (one-handed person is called Tunda) Haji Murad Ali made a simple kebab famous all over the world with his skill.
The relation between Lucknow and Tunday Kabab
Before delving deep into the history of Lucknow and its food, we can understand the story of Tunday Kabab. How did a simple kebab become such an important part of the Nawabi culture of Lucknow? Lucknow has always been famous for its food. The Nawabs here were fond of food and they enriched the food culture here. Tunday Kabab started with Galawat Kabab. But after the arrival of Haji Murad Ali, this kebab created a new identity and became famous as Tunday Kabab. Haji Murad Ali had one hand, but there was magic in his hands. He made Galawat Kabab so soft and tasty that it became popular among the people. According to a story, Haji Murad Ali made these kebabs for a Nawab who had lost his teeth. Although this story is not completely true, it shows the popularity of Tunday Kabab.
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What is the real story of Kabab
What is the real story of Tunday Kabab? Let’s find out, writes Ruth Dsouza Prabhu in her new book ‘India’s Most Legendary Restaurants’ published by Aleph Book Company. Most people call it Galawati Kabab. But its correct name is Galawat. Galawat means kebab made with a softening agent (in this case papaya), which gives them this name. One needs to go back in history to understand why this is so. Lucknow’s kebabs are very delicate and are different from the kebabs made in different places across India. Over time, Shuja-ud-Daula’s son Asaf-ud-Daula shifted the capital of Awadh from Faizabad to Lucknow.
Ruth D’Souza Prabhu’s book ‘India’s Most Legendary Restaurants’
The rise of Lucknow with the fall of Delhi
Thereafter, the city turned into a cultural haven. The rise of the Nawabs of Awadh and the city of Lucknow coincided with the decline of the Mughals and Delhi. So some of Delhi’s best dancers, singers, poets and chefs who suddenly found themselves without patrons moved to Lucknow. This further cemented the city’s place in India’s cultural landscape. This is why Awadh cuisine reached its peak in the 18th century. Different types of kormas and kebabs were made during that period, which had a unique blend of spices and were extremely delicate in taste.
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Three things that make kabab special
Galawat ke kebabs are one of the many examples of Lucknow’s culinary heritage. Made with fine minced meat (originally buffalo, but now also mutton), the kebabs are known for their unique texture. Raw papaya is used to make them tender. Tunday Kabab has been the flag bearer of this culinary heritage for over 125 years. There are three things that make Tunday so special. First is of course Tunday Miyan’s cooking; second is the spice mix, which is said to have been developed by him on the advice of one of the most popular hakims, Hakim Safdar Nawab; and third and most importantly, it was a common man’s meal in the early 19th century. Many dismiss Tunday ke kebabs as cheap street food. In their view, it lacks the sophistication of the kebabs prepared in the homes of Lucknow’s elite families.
Murad Ali started making his trademark Galawat kebabs in a corner of the square in 1905.
People who built a legacy
Now let’s talk about the one-handed kebab maker. Haji Murad Ali, an expert in making kebabs, came to Lucknow from Bhopal in search of work. One day he fell from the roof while flying a kite. His hand was badly injured and due to lack of proper medical care, it had to be amputated. One day he met a sadhu who blessed Murad Ali and told him to serve others as long as possible. After losing one hand, Murad Ali started making his trademark Galawat kebabs in a corner of the Chowk in 1905. The kebabs gained popularity due to their taste.
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After Murad Ali, Raees took over the business
After Haji Murad Ali’s demise, his nephew, Haji Rais Ahmed took over the business as he had no son. Rais Ahmed not only ensured that the quality of the kebabs was maintained, he also did not let the prices increase despite the rising costs. It was during his time that Tunday Kabab started making its extremely popular parathas. Commonly known as Mughlai parathas. Parathas and kebabs together make a complete meal that even a common man could easily afford and eat. Enthusiasts were ready to go all the way to the Chowk for it.
For the first time, Galawat kebabs with mutton were made at Tunday Kababi’s Aminabad outlet.
When mutton kebabs started being made, more people started coming
Because the kebab was made from buffalo meat, it kept away a large section of people who were uncomfortable with it. But that changed when Haji Raees Ahmed’s son Mohammad Usman opened his shop in Aminabad in 1995. For the first time, he started making Galawat ke kebabs with mutton. This decision brought more people to the restaurant. However, the original connoisseurs of Tunday ke kebabs still visited Chowk. After Raees Ahmed’s demise in 2022, the Chowk outlet is looked after by Raees’ younger son and Usman’s younger brother Mohammad Rizwan. It remains primarily a place where locals come to eat kebabs and parathas.
Tags: Food Recipe, Food Stories, Lucknow city, Lucknow city facts
FIRST PUBLISHED : July 30, 2024, 15:46 IST
